The Venezuelan Diaries

Spit Chicken

The trip back down from Angel Falls was considerably quicker and wetter, the jungle floor muddied as the clouds relinquished their burden. As we got to the point of embarcation, we had advanced some thirty minutes quicker than the rest of our group which meant lunch would be later than hoped for.


We passed the lunch camp of a group we had bumped into earlier and the divine smell of wood smoke and skewered chickens, fresh sweet onions and plump tomatoes made our stomachs somersault into our mouths, desperately hoping that our lunch bore no resemblance to the soggy cheese and ham sandwiches we had breakfasted on. Our prayers were answered in the form of spit roasted chicken, slaw and rice...we sainted the chefs, had our fill and steadied ourselves for the long journey home. 

A hard ride, made relatively quick(ish) given the amazing sunset ordered by Dios, a panache of pink with a rash of purple slashed across the horizon opening up the belly of the sky. The tepuy took on a different character now looming dark and sinister whilst the black blanket invaded the sky with clusters of jewels piercing the ink, bright, hypnotic and playful as tiny planets sparked across the universe fading into obscurity. The show got even better, pink lightning backlit 200o of landscape, crackling into yellow and then spreading its neon aftermath across the tepuy lighting up the river. Fireflies performed their pyrotechnic acrobatics, the dark river sloshed around us into the boat and now warming our feet with its bath tub temperature. We banked and in darkness cut through a scrub path on foot for thirty minutes as the fireflies continued to guide our footing. Our night vision kicked in and half an hour later we were back on the boat and at the lodge in no time. Our appetites were satiated with freshly caught blau, blau in the company of the polite yet joyful Japanese. We retired, exhausted, exhilarated, full of wonder and bliss at least eight hours of sleep before our flight to the archipelago of Caribbean Venezuelan islands known as Los Roques.

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